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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.